Start: Miraz
End: Sobrado dos Monxes
Distance: 15.67 miles (17.57 kilometers) and 1,444 feet (440.13 meters) of ascent.
Quote: “For in the true nature of things, if we rightly consider, every green tree is far more glorious than if it were made of gold and silver.” ~ Martin Luther
Musings: Most of our walking for the past two days has been through forests. The trees though are constantly changing from eucalyptus, to pine, to oak, and back to eucalyptus. There have been few grand vistas in the past couple of days, but the cooler temperatures and forest fragrances we experience amongst the trees have been most welcome.
There were a few highlights from yesterday. First, as we were leaving Baamonde we ran once again into Ayya, our Camino friend who is the wandering Buddhist nun. We were able to tell her about the 700-year-old tree in the yard of Ingrexa de Santiago de Baamonde (Church of Santiago of Baamonde). She did not know about it and was excited to see it before starting her walk for the day. We later met up with Ayya again at the albergue at Miraz where she was having a late mid-day meal before walking further into the evening, and then again on Tuesday in Sobrado dos Monxes. Although Ayya is uncertain because she does not really plan how far she will walk each day, it’s possible that we will reach Santiago on the same day.
Hilary, one of our Camino kids, who is now a day or two ahead of Carol and me, told us about a place where we could get a waxed stamp in our Credencial del Peregrino (Pilgrim’s Credential) on Tuesday in the small town of Seixon. In order to get a certificate of completion at the Santiago cathedral, pilgrims must get their Credential stamped by churches, albergues, hotels, cafes, etc., along the Way ti demonstrate that they have walked the entire distance. Everyone provides an inked stamps but this was the first waxed stamp we’d heard about, so we were interested in trying to get one. When I got to Seixon, which is a very tiny hamlet, I saw one small gate open. I peeked into the courtyard and saw two other pilgrims sitting at a picnic table. Around the corner came a jovial bearded man. We did our best to communicate with my limited Spanish. He was obviously an artist — both sculptor and painter — and he was at work in his studio which was open to the courtyard. His name is Francisco Javier Lopez. After giving me a waxed stamp on my credential, he ushered me into his home which was filled with his art work. You will see a picture of his self portrait below.
I continued on down the single lane of Seixon in hopes of finding the cafe that is marked on the map. Alas, it was closed. But sitting in the cafe’s outside chairs and enjoying their own snacks were two delightful pilgrims who have since become Camino friends—Viv and Martin. Martin is 81 years old (although you’d never guess it), and we think he’s the oldest person walking the Camino Del Norte this year. A friend posted about him one of the Camino Del Norte social media sites and, although the post has garnered more than a thousand “likes,” no one has come forward asserting an older age. Viv says he’s in such great shape because she takes such good care of him!
After a brief chat with Viv and Martin at the closed cafe, I continued down the Camino another kilometer or so to find an open cafe and Carol. We ordered lunch and had just begun to eat when Viv and Martin showed up and decided to order lunch too. As it turns out, they were staying at the same albergue as Carol and I that evening and we were able to share dinner together as well. Also joining the four of us for dinner was another old Camino friend, Steve. One of our Camino kids, Hilary, had introduced us to Steve when she brought him along to the Playa de las Catedrales near Ribadeo. Turns out Steve is a Methodist minister, the third clergy I’ve met on the way, and he has both taught in academia and pastored churches in several places throughout the world. Although Steve is an American, he has married a Brit and lives in the UK now. Steve explained to me that one of the differences between the US Methodist Church and the UK Methodist church is that the UK Methodist church permits local congregations to be open and affirming of LGBTQ Christians. The five of us had a wonderful conversation over dinner on Monday night, and then today, we all walked at our own paces to Sabrado dos Monxes.
There were few services for pilgrims along the Way today. But at approximately 8.5 miles, just as I was really getting tired and hungry, I walked into a tiny hamlet and suddenly there was a sign announcing the availability of coffee, bocadillos, tortillas, etc. I rounded the corner and there was a courtyard of a small farm house where a young woman had set up tables in the shade and was serving half a dozen pikgrims who had already arrived. There were chickens (and more than a few flies) everywhere but no one cared. The food and drink and camaraderie were all so welcome. And no sooner had I sat down than Viv and Martin showed up with one of their pilgrim friends from Hungary. Food and drink just taste so much better when you’re really dry and hungry. Many have us have noted how heightened our sense of taste seems to be on the Camino. But then again, I rarely have the opportunity to really get hungry at home like I do here. The faintest tug in my belly at home and I give in and feed it before it ever really begins to gnaw. I’ve come to understand how much more satisfying and delicious the simplest food is when your body isn’t just asking for it politely but rudely demanding that you provide it now.
There is a Cistercian monastery in Sobrado des Monxes (Our destination for today) that operates an albergue for pilgrims. Indeed, the monastery was founded in the 10th Century and had provided sanctuary for pilgrims since that time. Viv and Martín and Carol and I were staying in a small hotel just across the square from the monastery, but Steve was staying in the monastery at its albergue. He told us about a vespers service that the monks were holding at 7pm this evening and agreed to meet us inside the monastery grounds so we would know where to go to attend the service. It was a beautiful service that consisted mostly of chanting and singing by the monks, some prayer, and some scripture reading. There were only 10 monks, and they congregated in a circle for their vespers prayer service. The youngest of the 10 monks, I would guess, was in his mid-50s. It made me wonder if this beautiful 1,000-year-old tradition of dedicating one’s self to a monastic life of prayer can continue to endure. I hope so because I found the service powerful and moving—ten men joined together in a lifelong brotherhood of prayer for the world. Seems like the world needs more of that for sure.
It’s hard to believe but Carol and I are down to just three more days of walking before we hope to reach Santiago.
Until tomorrow, here are the photos from yesterday and today:
June 5:
A river park near Baamonde
A really nice example of a Galician hórreo even if a bit deteriorated.
Hmmm . . . . Could be a bit confusing for the uninformed pilgrim. The Camino splits here into two possible paths that reconnect later. One is more beautiful but one is 10 kilometers shorter. Which would you choose?
The tiny hamlet with the artist who provides wax stamps.
Here’s his self portrait.
Here’s my pilgrim’s credential with the artist’s wax stamp.
Viv and Martin
I forgot to tell you about the herd of goats that briefly took over the Camino yesterday evening!
June 6:
A misty cool morning
Carol, Martin, and Viv
Viv and Martin (photo credit to Carol)
Me (photo credit to Carol).
Small courtyard where food and beverages were being served to pilgrims.
Lots of chickens around.
A view of the monastery as you walk into Sobrado dos Monxes
The front of the monastery as we were on our way to the verdores service.
Like others, my days will not be complete without your posts. So happy for you both that the end is in sight. Thank you for taking all of us along for the ride. It has been a great one. When is your next adventure?
I will miss this daily feed when you are done !